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Starting homeward bound
 
Starting homeward bound
Posted by grahame at 18:34, 28th October 2026
 
We have arrived - somewhat tired the International train back from Portugal to Spain, and are booked in here for a couple of nights.   Time for food, and a a good sleep.  Explore the town and post more in the morning.  Here are some pictures out of the train window (the ones clear of reflections) and of the train itself.










Re: Starting homeward bound
Posted by Chris from Nailsea at 19:30, 28th October 2026
 
Thanks for posting that update, grahame.

Your photos seem to indicate that there is something of a shortage of natural water in Portugal and Spain?

CfN.

Re: Starting homeward bound
Posted by grahame at 07:56, 29th October 2026
 
Thanks for posting that update, grahame.

Your photos seem to indicate that there is something of a shortage of natural water in Portugal and Spain?

CfN.

Yesterday was brown and dry - comes across as semi-desert.   I would characterise Portugal from what little I know as an Atlantic-facing country with most of its towns and cities close to that edge, and then with a number of river valleys cutting inland from the coast.  But they are not fast flowing torrents.

The most famous is the Douro valley which I have previously visited ... and runs out at Pochino.  A beautiful line along a valley that has steep slopes covered in Vinyards, with cruise ships offering a watery alternative to travel.   The one that crosses the border is the Linha do Leste.   The Linha da Beira Alta does not carry on into Spain, and the Ramal de Cáceras is an abandoned route on the Portugeses side, with (and I may be out of date) trains just three days a week into the core of Spain.

Maps to show some lakes ... not sure how much the water management does for them / how important they are.  The flora that we see looks like it's built for the harsh dryness, so I am somewhat relieved that the whole is not the effect of global warming.

Re: Starting homeward bound
Posted by TaplowGreen at 09:51, 29th October 2026
 
Thanks for posting that update, grahame.

Your photos seem to indicate that there is something of a shortage of natural water in Portugal and Spain?

CfN.

Yesterday was brown and dry - comes across as semi-desert.   I would characterise Portugal from what little I know as an Atlantic-facing country with most of its towns and cities close to that edge, and then with a number of river valleys cutting inland from the coast.  But they are not fast flowing torrents.

The most famous is the Douro valley which I have previously visited ... and runs out at Pochino.  A beautiful line along a valley that has steep slopes covered in Vinyards, with cruise ships offering a watery alternative to travel.   The one that crosses the border is the Linha do Leste.   The Linha da Beira Alta does not carry on into Spain, and the Ramal de Cáceras is an abandoned route on the Portugeses side, with (and I may be out of date) trains just three days a week into the core of Spain.

Maps to show some lakes ... not sure how much the water management does for them / how important they are.  The flora that we see looks like it's built for the harsh dryness, so I am somewhat relieved that the whole is not the effect of global warming.


Portugese wine is criminally underrated, I hope you get the chance to try some.

Re: Starting homeward bound
Posted by grahame at 07:54, 31st October 2026
 
Bit of a repeat here - written up for "Interrailing for the older crowd" and much more of a train-based desciption than a put on the Coffee Shop yesterday.

Travelling from Porto to Madrid, we took the only international train running from Portugal to Spain at present. Porto (San Bento) to Porto (Campagnha) on a suburban train, to Entrocamento on a high speed express running north to south in Portugal, then a railcar that runs just twice a day through desolate country to Badajoz in Spain.  We chose to stop there for 2 nights before carrying on to Madrid on the (again) twice daily express.

It worked for us, and I would recommend it for Interrailers.  You get to see a huge variety, but definitely more adventure travel than you'll get on an escorted tour - thank goodness.  Booking - interesting. Reservations needed on the main Porto to Entrocamento service, which we did in person.  Original passports and tickets on phone needed; the clerk insisted on both "real" and I had to go back to the hotel where Lisa was resting to get hers - pictures on the phone which had previously sufficed did not do so here.  The suburban train from the centre in Sao Bento to Campagnha is an easy 4 minutes, and even on that there are wonderful views down over the river. I recommend taking a train earlier than the one the journey planner defaults to - there were some suburban trains running late and the extra 15 minutes is re-assuring.

The express from Porto was crowded and left a few minutes late.  We "helped" some lost tourists who weren't aware of coach numbers our of our reserved seats in our very full carriage, and explained to them how to find the number of a carriage after their initial strong instance they were correctly seated. We then, somehow, found space for our backpack, case and Lisa's mobility aid in a carriage the looked like it had been designed with a view to posh business traveller use with limited luggage.  Works along the way slowed the train at times, and from an initial 10 minute delay we were 35 down by Entrocamento, and concerned at our 38 minute change.  A word with the train manager as he came through was re-assuring, though we know enough about these things to be aware that he COULD simply have said that to pass us on as a problem out of his hands.

Yes, we made the connection into the last train of the day into Spain - scheduled 13:36, actually left at around 13:45 or so and maintaining connections from Porto (our train) from the north and Lisbon from the south which arrived even after us.  A really old one carriage "railcar" from the bay in the north end of the platform, vintage 1955 and refurbished 2003 according to Wikipedia.  Very much a community train.  Started off "nesting" - Nearly Every Seat Taken - and thinned out along the way.   From being separated and in less than ideal seats, Lisa and I were able to join each other perhaps half an hour into the nearly-3-hour journey.  An old railcar, a low platform and a challenge for anyone to board, let alone us with a mobility aid.  If Lisa was chair-bound, it would have not been possible.

The countryside started along a sleepy river valley then onto dry higher ground, pausing at the occasional station to drop off a handful or people at each and pick up a very few more.  We passed the railcar coming the other way mid-journey and crept into the little bay platform at Badajoz, almost apologetic, on time at 17:26.  Staff on train polite and helpful; locals in Iberia seem to be aloof and very much "survival of the fittest" in boarding trains and grabbing even the priority seats. 

And so, Badajoz.   There's an 8 minute connection into the Madrid train which was sitting just across the platform, and the staff on that train - good on them - checked for connecting passengers.   There may have been one of two, but most of the handful still on the train from Portugal were going no further that evening, and we rolled out of the station and to our hotel.

Journey resumes - 36 hours later.  2 trains a day, Badajoz to Madrid, too early and too late to be convenient.  Up before the crack of dawn, no-one around except for a couple of street cleaners as we wheeled back up to the station, which is some distance from the city centre across the river and up a hill.  But then the station was crowded, awaiting the arrival of the train which turned around and left - with us on board - 10 minutes later at 07:21.  Renfe chap rushed to help us board; Lisa's folding chair comes as a surprise and we are getting use to panicking staff in Spain who see us and assume we need help.

Again, a journey over dry plains, this time at up to 199kms per hour.   Train was an older "Talgo" - seats looked good but were not the most comfortable for me.  Buffet car / counter provided a much needed cup of coffee and pack of peanuts, and a trolley came through in due course too - and so a largely uneventful run into Madrid, Midday arrival, and where we were able to check into our hotel early before grabbing a bite to eat.

Would I recommend the journey?  For observant and inquisitive travellers with time, yes.   I might look to add a stop at Entrocamento to see the railway museum there, and cut nights to just one in Badajoz if travelling solo.  Hotels - Mila Porto (Porto), Turia (Badajoz) and Howard Voel suites (Madrid) all recommended, as close (closEST in Badajoz!) to the station and with lifts.  If we had needed wheelchair access all the way - not an ideal journey.

As an after-comment, the dreadful rail accident in Spain at Urda happened as we left Porto; our journey was on the next "spoke" of the Spanish network into Madrid, and although we passed close to Toledo it did not affect our train.  We arrived at Atocha where both trains involved had started from.  As a terminal, it felt quiet; I have no idea how it is normally, mind.  Flags on buildings around at half mast, and our thoughts very much with those hurt, the families of those deceased and all the staff - emergency services and rail - involved.

The highlights an lowlights in terms of UK comparisons?

* The availability on express trains of a fixed counter where you can get a coffee and a packet of peanuts from a known location and when you want them

* The holding of connections into thinner services

* The need to book / reserve ahead of time with ID required as you do so

* The apparent reduced emphasis on safety here; I find it hard to imagine (and don't want to be proved wrong!) that the UK would let trains proceed again at anything more than a slow pace in the event of a signal issue.


 
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